PRELUDE:
As a youngster were you excited at the prospect of going on a long trip or a holiday? Did you lay awake counting the moments to the “big day”?
Well, that’s how I felt at the thought of commencing our trip to Singapore and Thailand.
For years prior I have listened to other sons of the Battalion recount their trips to where their father was in Singapore. For me it was “I’ll do that one day”. My problem was something always got in the way – work, family, time and a host of what are now irrelevant excuses.
The opportunity arose thanks to Doug Ogden and for once I decided to abandon all the excuses and “just do it”.
I knew that this opportunity would not come again – sure I could do a similar trip on my own or with Rosalie, but the lure of being able to not only visit all the normal places but also some that were not on the standard tourist route was too great.
I had also over a long period of time got to know some of the other sons – Andrew Brand, John Lack, Wayne Pickering, Colin Stiles, Ed Burton, Ron Lovett and of course Doug Ogden. Some of these guys had been several times but others had not. None of us had actually done this trip together in the past – so in one way we were all commencing a journey into the relatively unknown.
PRE-TRIP PREPARATIONS
Once I made the decision and paid my deposit, the reality that this “might” happen still had not sunk in.
I went through the motions of obtaining a new passport (that alone was an adventure in itself). Speaking to my doctor – no you don’t need any “shots”. Moreover, constantly talking to Rosalie – “are you ok with me going?” I think I asked her this same question at least twice a day leading up to the big day.
As Rosalie has always done she gave me 100% support and I guess what finally did it was to hear from her “you must go and do this – your dad would want you to go and so do I”.
I guess to finally squash any concerns I had, Rosalie bought me a new luggage case!
Doug’s emails started. Instructions on who was going (oops my name is on the list). Outline details on travel tips and what to pack – oh dear can this be actually happening?
I sent an email to John Lack asking him whether he would like to “bunk” with me if he was still going. John emailed me back “of course I’m going – and yes let’s share a room”.
I also sent several emails to Doug – “what time are you getting to the airport?” “Can we take medals?” I must have driven him crazy with the number of questions.
No turning back now.
Packing for the trip was fun. Rosalie packed – and I unpacked!
A compromise was struck, and the case was finally locked and sealed.
DEPARTURE DAY 1 – TULLAMARINE – 0700HRS SATURDAY 1 SEPT
I had not slept the night prior. Again, like that youngster I tossed and turned all night trying to picture what the trip would be like and what I might see and experience.
Booked a cab for pick up at home by 0615 hrs. No way am I going to be late!!
Arrived at Tullamarine and I can feel my heart racing (we haven’t even taken off yet!).
Made my way into the international departures and wandered around somewhat aimlessly for 10 or 15 minutes. Exchanged some Aussie dollars for Singapore dollars and thought that was exciting! Later one became a bit blasé about currency exchanges as this was to be quite the “norm” during the trip.
Ah – a friendly face – there was Doug. I tried to look as casual as Doug looked about the whole thing, but I couldn’t. No doubt about it – I was here, and this was happening!!! Doug must have thought I was a nut!!
Luggage checked in and others began arriving. Wayne Pickering, John Lack, Colin & Marion Stiles arrived. Warm handshakes, a pat on the back and broad smiles all round. This was how it was to begin and (I didn’t know it then) but this set the tone and comradeship for the rest of the trip.
I had nominated myself to be the “official” photographer.
Great fun photos taken in the departure lounge, with me now acting like a 10-year-old. Doug’s already calling me the “larrikin”.
Further introductions – we met Brian & Dianne Martin and Geoff & Esme Hearn for the first time.
Finally, all present and accounted for and we began boarding. I could hardly contain my excitement – I wanted to sprint down the embarking corridor and push the plane off myself!
Take off time 1010hrs local time. Next stop – Singapore!
AIRBORNE TO SINGAPORE
No doubt about it – Singapore Airlines deserve their good name.
I sat next to Wayne Pickering (see nicknames) and his partner Chris. We chattered away and played with our individual onboard entertainment consol for a greater portion of the trip.
Nice food and wine served, and I was grateful for a drop of wine to try and lower my still bubbling excitement level!!
It is about a 6-hour flight.
Halfway there I stretched my legs and met Andrew Brand, Colin Stiles, Doug and Wayne Pickering all gathered near the toilet area. This seemed to be “the place to be”. Soon Marg Hogan and Karen Trevaskis (daughter and niece of Vic Wedlick DCM) joined us.
Lots of scattered conversations on their respective fathers, uncles etc. Doug there just calmly answering numerous questions from everyone. I grabbed my video camera and started recording. I made a decision there and then that I would do whatever I could to record every single moment of this trip – I did not want to miss one second!!
TOUCHDOWN!
After clearing customs and the usual security checks which did not take all that long - my first impression of Singapore was – HOT AND HUMID!
The humidity hits you like a blast of hot air from an oven.
We met our guide – Lawrence. I liked him straight away. He greeted us with an equally warm smile and an infectious laugh. Everyone was in high spirits.
We filed off to the coach with Lawrence leading the way (first stopping to photograph the first of many small temples dotted around Singapore).
More head counts and once all aboard off to the Rendezvous Hotel.
Lawrence made the trip to the hotel great fun. His friendly and often amusing descriptions of notable landmarks and his early display of knowledge of the Malayan campaign impressed me greatly. This guy has done his homework!
I tried to capture all the sights and sounds on video whilst also trying to soak everything in myself. I was immediately taken with Singapore. The wide streets and pristine buildings and landscaping are a credit to the people. There is the usual hustle and bustle like any big city but everything seemed to be “under control” and certainly no litter in the streets and no graffiti anywhere.
Arrival at the Rendezvous and check in. Very nice hotel and again Lawrence & Doug helping everyone in the group get settled in.
John & I check in to our room, and my first taste of John’s irrepressible humour begins.
There wasn’t to be a day that John didn’t make me laugh about something.
SINGAPORE SHOPPING – SUNDAY DAY 2
Andrew & Melanie Brand, Andrew’s sister, John Lack & I decided to shop for a new suit each.
We had already gone through the shonky tailor routine with Lawrence (comments like “double sided sticky tape and staples for seams” brought raucous laughter from everyone) so he recommended us to his tailor in Chinatown – Raffles Tailors – so off we all went by cab.
The cab driver was more interested in being “tour guide” rather than cab driver. He took us by some circuitous route to where we were supposed to go. He eventually dropped us off “somewhere” in Chinatown near the Singapore river but where we ended up was not even close to where we were supposed to be. Nevertheless, standing amongst the “locals” who obviously were still getting over their usual heavy Saturday night provided some interesting and eye-opening sights.
Out came the maps.
Now I thought Andrew might have inherited some of the navigational qualities from his late father Vic Brand MC, but it turns out Andrew is a much better lawyer than he is a navigator.
Yours truly took the “point” and we finally managed to end up outside Raffles Tailors.
Andrew & I measured for suits. John wanted a seer sucker suit and learnt of another place at the Swissotel Merchant Court. So off we trekked taking in all the sights and sounds as we walked.
Prior to us leaving Chinatown, Andrew helped me try and identify where my dad may have had his photo taken outside what was once a camera store. We searched in vain and finally agreed we must be close, so Andrew took my photo standing in the street – just like my dad did.
My first personal poignant moment.
The day concluded for me with having “high tea” at Raffles and the mandatory Singapore Gin Sling with Doug, Elisabeth, Andrew and Melanie – what a day!
KRANJI CEMETARY/CHANGI/SELERANG BARRACKS – MONDAY DAY 3
The smiling face of Lawrence greeted us as we prepared to hop on the bus for our first full day tour.
Some new faces had joined us. Jack Baker (who incidentally was the drum major in my Army Reserve Regiment – talk about a small world!), David Brace and Kerry Barker.
I sat with Ed Burton for a while. This will be a hard day for him – his dad lies in Kranji.
On the way, we visited what we know as Caldecott Hill and then to the Ford Factory where the Allies surrendered. Just incredible to know that these are the places where our fathers may have trod.
Kranji War Cemetery is nestled amongst lush tall trees. The site slopes seemingly endlessly to the sky and is dominated by imposing memorial archways and a huge white cross. The grass is like a bowling green, there is not one weed or speck of litter anywhere. All the headstones are glistening white and perfectly aligned. Straightaway you know you are on hallowed ground.
Unfortunately, progress has caught up with the site and there is the hum of road noise from the new freeways and construction noises that break the air.
I search for Arthur Sheldon’s name in the registry but no luck. Arthur was dad’s best mate and was killed at Muar. He and dad joined up together. I have included the epitaph that dad wrote for Arthur in earlier chapters of this book. Dad often talked about “ACE” as he was called in those rare moment’s dad shared his experiences with me.
I am kicking myself that I didn’t bring it.
Ed has found his father’s headstone. WO2 Alec Burton KIA Muar.
I felt privileged to be able to record this image, and I thank Ed for allowing me to intrude into this most precious moment for him.
I step back two steps and an image came into my view finder – Lieut A.C.E Sheldon KIA Muar. Until that moment I thought I was in control of my emotions, but nothing prepared me for the shock of seeing Arthur’s headstone. I am not ashamed or embarrassed – I wept uncontrollably. I found myself being wrapped in someone’s arms – it was Doug and Ed Burton.
I babbled out what I had seen, and Doug looked me in the eye and said” well you’ve found him”. We didn’t need to say any more than that.
At the headstone of Lieut Arthur Sheldon, killed in action at the Muar Road battle. Taken at Kranji War Cemetery, September 2007
Wrestling with my emotions I proceeded up the hill to the Memorial arches. I found Wayne Pickering standing there looking upwards. I followed his gaze and there on the wall was his dad’s name. Pte A.T.H Pickering KIA - body never recovered.
Shortly after, I note Doug is sitting with Wayne quietly holding his hand – again no words needed to be spoken.
Changi Chapel and museum is a very popular tourist stop and the day we were there was no exception.
We experienced our first tropical downpour, but nothing could dampen our spirits.
I ventured out in the rain to the chapel which is a replica of the real one which was relocated to Duntroon Military College.
I lit a candle for my dad and all those of the 2/29th who did not make it home – the image of Ed and Wayne foremost in my mind.
I could have spent a whole day just at the museum, but we were on a time limit so – back on the bus again.
Next stop the Johore artillery emplacement – or what was left of it. These were enormous gun emplacements guaranteed to stop any seaborne attack. They certainly would have been effective if the Japs had conformed to the British belief that a land-based attack was not possible.
Unfortunately, the Japs had other ideas.
The ammunition for these gun emplacements was armour piercing to destroy ships – totally ineffective against mobile troops on bicycles!
I took some great photos here and it was a time to perhaps recharge our sense of humour.
A bit a “posing” with the guns and even though it was still raining we wandered around getting soaked and taking countless photos of each of us and small groups.
Selerang Barracks is a restricted area and is not open for tourists. Thanks to Doug’s great work prior, we were able to gain access to the barracks.
This is of course where the infamous Selerang Square incident took place and I was keen to see the square.
We were graciously escorted by a young Major from the Singapore 9th Regiment to the museum contained within the officer’s mess building.
My dad commenced his officer training here, but I was saddened to learn that the barracks where he had his photo taken had since been pulled down and new barracks built.
We did though after leaving the museum see what was left of the original square, now covered with vehicles and vehicle hangers.
At least we can say we were there. More video footage and photos taken.
At some point we also passed St Patrick’s school were my dad completed his officer training. I would have loved to go there but the school was closed due to school holidays.
Again, more footage and photos taken.
Lunch at the Mandai Orchard Gardens was delightful and also a chance to gather our thoughts. Group spirits were back on a high again, and I began to sense a deepening bond between us all.
I have decided to refer to us as the “Family of the 2/29th” – we are now not just “Friends or Relatives of the 2/29th” – we are becoming one big family – as it would have been for our fathers.
PARIT SULONG/MUAR – TUESDAY DAY 4
We assemble early in the reception at the Rendezvous. Many of us are wearing our father’s medals and several of us are wearing our own.
The bus trip will take us across the border into Malaysia so it’s passports at the ready!
Lawrence is again a wealth of information and shares his knowledge of the Parit Sulong massacre and the events of Muar Rd.
We cross the border amongst enquiring glances from “locals” and the occasional friendly query from the border security guards who are somewhat fascinated with our medals. We then meet our Malaysian guide “Dass”.
The trip to Parit Sulong is filled with information and excitement level is high.
This service is to be televised and is already making press at home.
We arrive at Parit Sulong to a crowd of other participants, dignitaries, service personnel and most importantly of all – the veterans. About 6 in all including one most notable veteran – Capt Rowley Richards MBE, OAM,ED the former RMO of 2/15 Fd Regt and author of the book “A Doctors War” which I took with me to read.
I videoed the entire service which was very moving but tainted by overzealous photographers and thoughtless bystanders who intruded at the most inappropriate times.
Nevertheless, we were there representing the 2/29th and laid a wreath on behalf of the Battalion and then personal sprigs of flowers provided by the Australian Consulate.
The significance of this service and what it commemorated was truly appreciated by all of us, moreover because one of our own miraculously survived – Lieut Ben Hackney.
At the completion of the service we made our way to the abandoned building which is still standing and saw where Ben Hackney crawled with 2 broken legs and his arms bound with wire and hid from the Japs.
It is inconceivable how such inhumanity and cruelty can be brought against other human beings, but it did happen.
Hackney survived the war and came home where he became a very successful and prosperous wheat farmer. He never married and upon his death he bequeathed his residual Estate to the Battalion.
The Hackney Trust still exists today and is managed by the Battalion Trustees for the welfare and benefit of the Battalion members and their families.
The service was followed by a most enjoyable lunch for all concerned. I could not though get the ghosts of those that had suffered and died at this spot some 65 years ago out of my head.
A stop on the way back along Muar Rd in a search to find where the 2/29th dispersed into the jungle following the Muar Rd battle.
After several stops, we chose what we thought was the closest spot.
Walking along the side of the road we came upon a derelict old French type villa built in 1935. It was cement rendered and internally had a narrow staircase leading to what looked like upstairs rooms.
This seemed a most appropriate spot and it was here that we held our own private commemorative service. We were fortunate to be joined by Lynette Silver who addressed us. Lynette was instrumental in arranging the construction of the memorial at Parit Sulong and has written several books on the Malayan campaign.
A very moving and equally emotional time for all of us. I felt privileged to deliver the Ode.
I felt very close to my dad this day.
A long drive back to Singapore, arriving after 6.30pm. Most of us just grabbed a snack and hit the sack, totally drained.
John and I lay awake and spoke for what seemed hours. This was to be one of many quite talks John & I shared.
SENTOSA ISLAND – WED DAY 5
A free morning as we prepared to hop on the coach for a journey to Sentosa Island.
As usual, Lawrence cheerfully greeted us and is quickly becoming part of our group – not just a tour guide. We laugh and joke all the way, with Lawrence now imitating “Big Arnie” with “I’ll be back!”
Sentosa Island can be reached by bridge or by cable car.
We all went by cable car and me being now the larrikin that I am, dove into the first car with Lawrence, Ed Burton and Colin & Marion Stiles.
I think Marion got a bit nervous when I started squirming around in the seat trying to get video footage of all the sights. The car began rocking ever so slightly and it is the first time I saw Marion looking apprehensive. I think she was very relieved to finally arrive on the Island.
Another great day going through the museum and buying some souvenirs.
As usual, Lawrence was a star and made sure we got front row seats for the dolphin display.
An entertaining event, probably more for the kids but I include myself in that category!!
The night concluded with amazing light and pyrotechnics display but preceded by an impromptu rock & roll demo by Doug & Elisabeth, Marg Hogan and even Lawrence.
What a great bunch!!
Back to the Rendezvous and more long chats with “JL” (see nicknames).
A regrettable farewell to Ed and some others who had to return to Australia, and also to our new best pal – Lawrence who we have invited to attend the 2/29 reunion next year – the rest of us soldiered on to Bangkok.
BANGKOK – THURSDAY DAY 6
I’m getting a bit blasé by now with all this international travel.
Arrived in Bangkok at 1540 hrs Bangkok local time. Still oppressively hot and humid.
First impressions – dirty, chaotic and smelly.
Met our guide – Jack.
Jack very officially ushered us all onto our coach for the trip to our hotel, the Indra Regent.
I was stunned by the extreme difference between Singapore and Bangkok.
Bangkok with its suspended freeways like a myriad of arteries in the human body crisscrossing the landscape. Such a glaring example of the “haves” and the “have nots”. Dirty stain marked buildings and rubbish everywhere! Some apartments were enclosed with barbwire security fencing – a friendly part of town obviously?
We got stuck in what seemed to be an endless traffic jam virtually all the way to the hotel, but our driver didn’t seem concerned as this is obviously the “norm”.
Jack did well to introduce himself and gave us various “stats” on Bangkok and where to go sightseeing. Also, if you want “something else (like sex) – just see me privately and I will fix for you” (said with a very cheeky grin).
Indra Regent was comfortable, although the first entry to our floor smelt very musty – I hope that is not a sign of things to come or what has come before.
“JL” and I got ourselves sorted and decided to go to the kick boxing. Andrew Brand, Doug and Rob Muir went with us.
Jack kindly arranged a driver which as it turned out was the best and safest idea yet.
Grabbed a quick bite and – you guessed it – had a Macca’s. I’m pleased to report that the Big Mac tasted just the same as in Melb – there’s no doubt about MacDonalds they are the masters of duplication!!
Andrew made it known that he is not a regular visitor to MacDonalds and he had me in stiches investigating and then commenting in his measured way on the contents of his burger. He looks so much like his dad it is uncanny.
Rajadamnern Stadium –Thai Boxing is an enclosed stadium set in three levels. Ringside, middle section and then there’s the caged back section where most of the Thai sat or should I say jumped, yelled, oohed and arghed.
Betting is rife and we sat transfixed watching some of the obvious “bookies”.
Rob started imitating one of them and I thought for one fearful moment we were going to be taken up on some bets!
What a great night.
To be at such an event with guys I am beginning to know more and more about and becoming closer to each day and to possibly think that again our fathers may have perhaps come to such an event in 1941 as fresh faced arrivals made me pause for a moment.
I reckon by the look of some of the rubbish and the state of the stadium it probably hadn’t been cleaned since 1941 either!!
Saw one contestant knocked down with what was obviously a snapped tendon – I nicknamed him “Onefookedknee!”
RIVER KWAI AND RIVER KWAI VILLAGE RESORT– FRIDAY – DAY 7
An early start for all with again Jack ushering us onto the coach. Jack has warmed slightly to our now growing irreverent humour and I think is starting to get into the swing of things with us.
Once out of the chaos of Bangkok the landscape changed to rolling mountains and lush green paddy fields. Along the way the roads are dotted with thatched hut villages. Motor scooters are the predominate mode of transport with mum, dad and youngsters all hanging on quite casually with seemingly not a care in the world as they motor along.
Arriving at Kanchanaburi War Cemetery was a very sobering moment.
Colin Stiles went and found his father’s headstone. A very emotional and private time for Colin. Again, my thanks to Colin for allowing me to video this moment.
So many 2/29th guys lie here. I tried videoing all the headstones, with the thought that perhaps someone back home might appreciate seeing where their father, uncle or relative lie.
Again, not a blade of grass out of order and (for a change) no litter and everything is kept spotless.
Met and spoke with Rod Beattie, the founder and owner of the Thai Burma museum. Rod & Doug have known each other for several years and I was anxious to learn more from Rod.
Rod’s friendliness and willingness to share what he knows impressed me greatly.
He assisted me in finally working out where my dad ended up at Takanoon and then confirmed his evacuation back to Kanchanaburi and then to Changi.
A momentous day and not over yet!
Lunch on the River Kwai and then a special treat. A high-powered boat ride in a long boat to see a Buddhist temple and explore a cave and then to visit a smaller cemetery at Chungkai.
Rod met us there and I sat transfixed as I listened to his explanations and stories.
A somewhat exhausting day but totally worthwhile.
Many photos taken on the bridge on the River Kwai and more insight from Rod on the REAL river Kwai story (Alec Guinness eat your heart out!).
Time was against us, but Rod promised to meet us again – I couldn’t get enough of this guy. What a walking encyclopaedia!
Onto the coach for our short drive to the River Kwai Resort.
As we approach the resort, we get a tip from Jack that if we want “provisions” we should buy them at the last 7 Eleven store as there are no shops where we are going.
I think we all fell in here as the 7 Eleven store owner must have rubbed his hands with glee as this coach load of Aussies descended on his store and virtually stripped it of every bottle of alcohol he had in the fridge! Many bought “nibbles” from some of the local market stalls, although I doubted from what source these “nibbles” came from. Some looked very suspect – but – what the hell!
We reckoned Jack has shares in this 7 Eleven!!
Even at night the humidity is around 90%.
JL and I settled in and quickly worked out how the air con worked – priority one!
Another quite moment for JL and I.
Beer in hand sitting in our shorts looking out on the river Kwai and philosophising on what might have been if Percival had stuck to his gut feeling and not surrendered. What if we had had air and naval support? What was the maximum range of our guns – why couldn’t they bring more fire to bear? Who decided not to include shrapnel rounds in the Johore guns – could that have made a difference?
What if in the first instance America had not imposed trade embargos on Japan? Japan may have ended up an ally against Germany – could that have ever been a possibility?
You can’t change history – there it is.
HINTOK STATION TO HELLFIRE PASS - SATURDAY DAY 8
If we only came for this day – I would have been happy.
I could hardly sit still in the coach – “are we there yet?”
Due to health reasons, Geoff Hearn could not make this journey, but I think everyone else elected to have a go.
I can’t describe in great detail what this trek was like – suffice to say for me this will be one of the most memorable moments of my life.
No wind, humidity 90%, and the sun filtering through the lush growth above our heads. Deathly silence, only the crunching of our feet on the railway breaks the air.
Most of my video footage is taken as I walk along trying desperately to not only provide some commentary but also take in what I am experiencing myself.
Rob and I find a bridge spike used to hold the wooden bridge beams together. I scrapped some stones into a bottle to keep (naughty me).
Commencing the trek along the railway. Taken at Hintok Station, September 2007.
In the middle of Hellfire Pass
After what seems like an eternity, we enter Hellfire Pass
Several other tourists are coming the other way but don’t seem as committed or truly interested as we are. I guess for them it is just another place they can talk about over a few drinks with their friends – just to say they have been there – done that!
I enter Hellfire Pass – still no wind and high humidity. I venture about ¾ the way and begin running my hand along the cutting. Everyone has gone up ahead and I am alone.
I touched what is a broken drill spike that was used to drill blast holes into the rock face.
I am not imagining this but suddenly a cold breeze blew past me - just for a second. No one else felt this breeze. When I walked out of the Pass, I asked Loris who was just in front of me by this stage if she had felt it and she said “no”. The humidity hit me again and I looked up into the foliage – not a breath of wind.
Draw your own conclusions.
On reaching the end of the Pass we were met by Geoff Hearn who, to his credit had ventured down the very steep steps from the Australian museum. He desperately wanted to walk the Pass, so Doug in an unselfish act of kindness escorted Geoff all the way back through the Pass. This is after he had carried his own pack plus someone else’s pack all the way and then probably covered the entire distance twice ensuring everyone was ok along the way.
I take my hat off to Doug but also to Geoff – a gutsy effort mate!!
A further sobering time was spent ambling through the museum at the end of Hellfire Pass.
A group photo at the museum and then on the coach to lunch at Home Phu Toey Resort.
Lunch was interesting (at least for me). I have to confess I was struggling with some of the “delicacies” and stayed with the fried rice and what I hoped was some sort of pork dish.
Janella Christie amazed me with her knowledge of the “local delicacies” and I bravely tried some local fish laced with what tasted like rocket fuel mixed with battery acid! Man, it was HOTTT!!!
A quick stroll into the village marketplace which was busy enough but litter everywhere and mangy dogs eyed me off menacingly. I decided retreat was the best course of action and made for the safety of the coach. (Bought a sealed plastic container for my stones – 100 Bhat – discounted down from 150 – wow!).
Coach ride to next stop – the Weary Dunlop Museum and the Jack Chalker Galley. By this stage I’m a bit “weary” myself and probably did not give this visit the due credit it deserved.
Very graphic drawings and photos which only reinforced what cruelty and inhumanity was inflicted to not only allied troops but civilians as well at the hands of the Japs.
Tragically as we know many escaped the punishment they should have received at the end of the war. Most would probably be dead now anyway, but I truly hope they are brought to account in some form of afterlife.
THREE PAGODA PASS – SUNDAY – DAY 9
Early start again and off to Three Pagoda Pass.
We meet up with Rod Beattie again and he constantly confounds me on his depth of knowledge.
We stop along the way at Takanoon or as close as we can get, and with Rod’s help we locate the site where Colin Stiles father finally died.
Another emotional ceremony between us – Marg Hogan played a haunting rendition of the Battalion song on her flute.
A moments reflection and then with plenty of supporters, Colin & Marion lead the way back to the coach.
Torrential rain began and we arrived at Three Pagoda Pass amid flooded roads and a river of red water gushing down into the village. The inhabitants didn’t seem to care and casually swept the water away and kept on trading their wares!
The Three Pagodas to quote the first comment from Marion Stiles – “is that all there is?”
Three whitewashed pagodas about 10’ high located in the centre of the village, and were erected to commemorate the victory by the Thai people over the French in the early 1900’s.
The significance for us as Family of the 2/29th was that our fathers slaved away building the railway and cutting through hills to get this far. It also represents the northern most point in Amphoe Sanghla Buri and is right on the boarder between Thailand and Burma (now Myanmar).
Many allied prisoners (and civilians) had died building this bloody railway by this time and more were to follow.
With Rod still sharing his vast knowledge we headed for Cholera Hill.
Deciding to stop and walk it we all proceeded through the mud to then stand exactly where George Aspinall took his photo of Cholera Hill that is contained in his book Changi Photographer.
With Rod’s help I stood exactly in the same spot and took a series of my own photos – I hope George won’t mind.
We then walked the ground pausing all the time to view what were old graves and to listen further from Rod on the terrible plight of the cholera sufferers.
What suffering and misery must have gone on here? It is hard now to imagine in such peaceful and lush surroundings.
Much time was spent just walking around – taking photos, touching the ground, closing eyes and trying to visualise what it must have been like.
Again, time was against us so back on the coach.
A journey to Kami Sonkurai brought a halt to our journey.
I had been so preoccupied with my own thoughts I had forgotten what this place meant to Doug.
This is where his father succumbed to cholera.
I kicked myself – someone should have led the service – why didn’t I think of that?
Doug bravely recounted what happened to his father, Marg played another rendition of the Bn song and John Lack said the Ode.
A brief stop but plenty of hugs and supporting words to Doug. I couldn’t speak – so I just gave him a “larrikin” hug.
I felt that this brief moment had cemented our bonds together – we truly became the Family of the 2/29th!
SAI YOK WATERFALL/ELEPHANT RIDE AND WAMPO STATION – MONDAY DAY 10
All aboard after breakfast and off first to the see the Sai Yok Waterfall.
Spent a pleasant morning with the remaining group now down to 17 with further departures.
Our spirits still high and much laughter going on.
Highlight for me was the ride on an elephant.
JL and I decided to be the “trail blazers” and took off duly mounted on this elephant. What a laugh! JL got a bit nervous as the elephant lurched down hill and feared he would slide off.
The crowning moment was to look across at John, the consummate history professor, perched on the back of this elephant wearing a crown of green leaves fashioned by our elephant handler!! A picture tells a thousand words – and I took plenty!!
Next off to Wampo station and to view the Wampo cutting. From here we were to catch the train back to Kanchanaburi and then coach back to Bangkok.
Lunch was ok – again I’m still wrestling with some of the “delicacies” and thought it best to stick to the good old fried rice and what I hoped were pork or chicken dishes.
It was here that Wayne & I devised a “plot” to present Doug & Lis with something to remember us all by.
I had, since we arrived in Singapore envied the Pith helmet worn by the door man at the Rendezvous Hotel.
Fruitless attempts were made by Wayne & me to buy them in Singapore and we had almost given up hope.
Strolling through the myriad of small market stalls at Wampo station, there large as life were 7 green pith helmets! Not enough, as we wanted one each plus one for those that had returned to Aust and also one for Bob Christie the Association secretary and Frank Nankervis the Association president.
I enlisted Jack to negotiate a deal for us, and at the end of considerable babbling and hand gesturing, a price was struck – and 7 pith helmets were ours!
Problem now was where to find a further 23? Again, Jack came to the party. He obviously continued negotiating with these people who must have thought all their Christmases had come at once!
Just before we were to hop on the train a series of frantic calls were made to some “warehouse” – heavens know where, but within 20 minutes 23 pith helmets duly arrived!!
Talk about a well laid deception plan. We had to distract Doug & Lis long enough to smuggle 30 odd pith helmets onto the coach without being seen. Ever wondered how to pack 30 pith helmets? It’s a bloody big box!!!
Safely on the coach, Wayne & I swapped a smug smile as he hopped aboard for the train trip. Everyone in the group were ecstatic and readily chipped in to cover the cost.
Again, there were no hesitations from anyone – we are family together.
The Wampo train appeared to be built somewhere between the Chinese Ming Dynasty and the early 1900’s. The carriages were very old and rusty and the diesel loco (least I think that’s what it was) certainly would not meet any rail operator standards!
Nevertheless, we hopped aboard amid lots of laughter and jokes about “rail worthiness” and scrambling for a window seat.
The train rumbled off and across the Wampo Cutting – lots of photos and video footage.
Once across the cutting the train picked up speed.
I don’t know what the driver put in the tank, but the speed of the train was only limited by the capacity of the track. Hanging out of the open window at no small peril to my good self I got some great footage of the train as it snaked around the bends and brushed past overhanging bamboo scattered along the railway.
What a great trip.
The scenery was spectacular, and we whisked past myriads of tiny thatched villages, only stopping briefly at the odd station
Enormous mountain ranges in the distance, carpeted with rolling lush paddy fields and pastureland.
At one point in the distance I could see Elephant mountain so named by Weary Dunlop as he sat where Doug & I had sat on the railway only days before. I reflected on how extremely fortunate we all were, and what price had been paid by so many others before us.
Wayne Pickering alerted me to the banging and crashing of the carriage behind us, and a closer inspection revealed the carriage appeared to be leaping off the tracks!!
In order to even walk the few steps to this rear carriage, one had to act like a shock absorber.
I decided that this should be made into a dance which I aptly named the “Wampo Waltz”.
I believe my demonstration of the basic steps will be shown on TV as the next dance craze – ho ho ho!!!
Eventually reaching Kanchanaburi, we made straight for Rod Beattie. A final session with Rod and an emotional farewell between Doug & Rod, with warm handshakes all round, saw us back on our coach and heading back to Bangkok.
Rod also generously gave us each a rail spike which I will treasure forever and will mount with the sliver of a railway sleeper I gathered from the railway.
CLOSING DAYS – TUESDAY – WED - DAYS 11 & 12
Determined to at least get some decent shopping in, I joined the “girls” – Janella Christie, Marg Hogan, Karen Trevaskis, Brenda Hodge, Loris Fletcher & Bev Smith for one last shopping expedition.
Thankfully, Janella was very experienced on where to shop and how to get there and it was decided to go to MDK Department store which on the map appeared only around the block. It shouldn’t take long to walk – WRONG!!!
It was decided (or it was decided for us by one of the taxi rank attendants – if you can call them that) to go by Took Took. We piled into three that miraculously appeared and set ourselves in for the trip.
Big mistake. We got no further than the street corner and “all stop!!”
Janella is arguing with the driver. Turns out these guys tell Janella MDK is not open until 11.30am and they will gladly take us “somewhere else”. Boy – can Janella fire up!!
“All out – these guys are thugs”, Janella orders.
Two taxis also miraculously appear and off we go!
Shopping at MDK was terrific, and Janella is the best negotiator ever. I learnt quickly that the international language is the calculator, and soon mastered the art of keying in what I wanted to pay and then barter from there.
Bought heaps of gifts. So much so that Bev and I had to buy another case each – still great fun. If Rosalie could have only seen me then – out shopping with 6 girls and then doing my usual bit by standing guard over their bags whilst they went “girly” shopping.
Interesting sights were everywhere and at every turn not least of which were 3 transvestites! Ever seen a 6’” girl” in a mini skirt shopping for shoes – it’s a sight I’ll not forget soon. Should have taken a picture but I was too preoccupied with “where do they hide it?” Even Bev was a bit confounded and we had some very interesting discussions on what methods may have been used.
Lunch in the mall saw Andrew & Melanie wander in and we recall our shopping ventures and our transvestites’ story. I’m not sure Andrew was all that impressed – but listened with an amused smile.
By 3.30pm we were shopped out so decided to grab some cabs and head back to the hotel.
Walking outside we were besieged with more Took Tooks but learning from the last experience we grabbed a cab.
Me in the front, Marg, Karen and Loris in the back, totally swamped with bags and of course my new case – now full of gifts.
Just about to take off and a policeman on a motor bike screeches up and orders us out!!!
Turns out the driver picked us up illegally and even an obvious bribe wouldn’t sway him (he still took the bribe from the driver though!).
Drama over, we climbed into two other taxis, also miraculously appearing, and returned to the hotel without further incident (“150 Bhat thanks – no meter – ok?”)
Our final dinner was on the 48th floor of a neighbouring hotel. Jack had done a great job organising this and the dinner was excellent.
I hope we pleasantly surprised Doug & Lis with their own Pith helmets but when Wayne issued out one for each, the laughs really started.
Several speeches from Andrew and JL and I desperately wanted to tell Doug what this trip had meant to me, but I just couldn’t summon the words.
What a great night and one I will never forget.
Wednesday – day 12 – last day was spent with last minute frantic packing and stuffing our now overloaded cases.
Some tense moments at the check in at Bangkok airport for fear of weight excesses (not yours truly – but the luggage!).
Colin may have solved the problem by sweet talking the check in girls on who we were and what we had done. I am sure they took pity on us and let us all through with no problems.
It seemed a very quiet journey home (probably because we flew through the night) but landing in Melbourne at 6.00am Thursday finally brought the trip to a close.
One anxious moment for me at customs as my case with the railway spike attracted attention. I wearily pointed to my polo shirt with the 2/29 emblem and briefly told the nice customs man where we had been and what we had done. Moments pause – and then “off you go mate”.
Well, that’s not the end of my little story.
I tried to recall some of the more humorous moments, along with those poignant moments that so often can be forgotten.
I also compiled my own nicknames list just like dad did in his diary – so here they are:
Nicknames:
Doug Ogden – Raj of Singapore
Elisabeth Ogden - Rajess of Singapore
Colin & Marion Stiles - The honeymooners.
John Lack - JL, Profelactus, Prof
Andrew Brand - AB
Melanie Brand - Mel.
Marg Hogan, Janella Christie, Bev Smith, Karen Trevaskis, Brenda Hodge & Loris Fletcher - The girls.
Rob Muir - Wiff, Scuba
Wayne Pickering - Pickles.
Geoff Hearn - Hobby (Geoff’s father was the founder of Hearn’s Hobbies in Melbourne)
Some humorous moments
“Thanks for sleeping with me Jack” - Departure of Ed Burton from
Singapore to Jack Baker (they were bunk buddies).
“I wondered what it was like to get into Mel’s knickers” – Mel’s laundry incorrectly delivered to my room.
Any time with Marion Styles.
Joke from Colin Stiles on Bob Hawke & Paul Keating – “But it’s Hazel’s handwriting” (you had to be there to appreciate this joke)
Brenda Hodge – the elephant park – a 10’ unassisted standing jump when Brenda thought an elephant was getting too amorous (turned out to be the elephant attendant playing a trick on her)
“I’ll be back” – famous last words from Lawrence our Singapore guide.
Some poignant moments
Locating where my father might have been in Chinatown with Andrew Brand
Kranji War Cemetery – the whole experience.
The first impromptu rendition of “Sussex by the Sea” by Marg Hogan on the coach.
My own experience with the cold breeze at Hellfire Pass.
Our private service at the abandoned villa.
Watching the sun rise over the River Kwai with John one morning.
Last post at Changi Museum.
Lighting a candle for my dad at the Changi Chapel.
Well, this is the final chapter in my story – it is not the end but simply the end of the beginning.
We will always now be “The Family of the 2/29th”.
“LEST WE FORGET”
My ‘extended family’. Descendants of the 2/29th Battalion at the appropriately named Rendezvous Hotel, Singapore
POSTSCRIPT
At the risk of this book becoming a constant “work in progress” I should finally have some closure.
As I have said previously, there is no real end, but perhaps some “wrapping up” might be in order.
I was afforded the unique opportunity in September 2007 to join with 30 or so sons, daughters and relatives of the 2/29th to attend a commemorative service at Parit Sulong Thailand.
The service commemorated the horrific massacre of over 140 allied prisoners by the Japanese in 1942.
In addition, we visited the major war cemeteries at Kranji, Kanchanaburi and Chungkai, and of course walked a section of the Burma/Thailand railway.
During the trip I kept my own diary. This is my day-to-day recollection of this most momentous journey.